Poll of the Day > Well there's your problem!

(+) Yeah! (+)

New plug gap: 0.041
Old plug gap: 0.100

And that isn't even the cylinder that's throwing the error code. That plug is stuck and I can't get it out.

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I have no idea what any of this means.

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Clench281 posted...

I have no idea what any of this means.

Spark plugs. They need to be gauged to ensure proper spark

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Far-Queue posted...

Spark plugs. They need to be gauged to ensure proper spark

And the spark erodes the electrode over time, gradually increasing the gap.

captpackrat posted...

That plug is stuck and I can't get it out.

That is always a fun time especially since there is frequently insufficient space to use anything with decent leverage.

rjsilverthorn posted...

That is always a fun time especially since there is frequently insufficient space to use anything with decent leverage.

It's extra fun because this is a Ford Triton engine. They got sued a while back because they had a faulty plug design that tended to get stuck, especially if you left them in for the recommended 100,000 mile lifespan. And I suspect these are original plugs with 155,000 miles. Use too much torque and the plugs will literally snap in half, leaving part of it stuck inside the engine and a HUGE repair bill.

Ford released a Technical Service Bulletin that is literally 11 pages long with instructions on how to safely remove the spark plugs. ELEVEN PAGES!

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Got half the plugs changed out. These are naaaaaaasty. No wonder it's been running like crap. The dealer who sold us the car said they were going to change the plugs and coils. The coils look good as if they'd been changed somewhat recently, but they couldn't have changed the plugs. That was less than 15,000 miles ago and platinum plugs don't go bad this fast.

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Those are definitely really old plugs. My brewery boss recently bought a van to wrap with the logo. The dealer delivered from a state away, without the oil cap. You can't trust dealerships.

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use fire
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Got all 8 plugs replaced now. Glad I did the driver side first, as the passenger side was a LOT harder to get to and the experience I gained with the driver side helped a lot. I had to remove the engine computer and mount bracket to get to the rear plugs. After getting everything buttoned up I drove for about 25 miles and it worked perfectly. All the performance issues I'd been having are gone.

I probably could have gotten away with not replacing the coils but they already had 20,000 miles on them and might have suffered some damage from the bad plugs, so it's probably better that I did.

I put anti-seize lubricant on the plugs and dielectric grease on the coil boots which should make them easier to change in the future.



I highly recommend the DeWalt Accessory Socket Kit if you're going to change your spark plugs. It comes with 3 different length extensions, U-joints, spark plug sockets, size adaptors, and drill adaptors for both 1/4" and 3/8" sockets. This thing totally saved my bacon and allowed me to get into some crazy tight spots.


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captpackrat posted...

It's extra fun because this is a Ford Triton engine.

You have my most heartfelt sympathies, especially if it's in a 150.

captpackrat posted...

It's extra fun because this is a Ford Triton engine.

bro fuckin tell me about it

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Red_Frog posted...

You have my most heartfelt sympathies, especially if it's in a 150.

Expedition, which is an F-150 with a permanent camper shell.

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captpackrat posted...

Expedition, which is an F-150 with a permanent camper shell.

I'm so sorry, I only hope you are being compensated handsomely.