Absolutely. Get the angle grinder back out.i've been doing it by hand with an automotive sanding block. the guides i've looked up online and the sandpaper packaging itself says not to use powered sanders. i would rather use one tbh, that would save me a whole lot of effort, but i guess there can be the possibility of sanding away too much and making a hole in the metal or something? i dunno.
i've been doing it by hand with an automotive sanding block. the guides i've looked up online and the sandpaper packaging itself says not to use powered sanders. i would rather use one tbh, that would save me a whole lot of effort, but i guess there can be the possibility of sanding away too much and making a hole in the metal or something? i dunno.How does it feel to the fingertip? You're probably right in staying away from powered solutions if it's not too deep.
How does it feel to the fingertip? You're probably right in staying away from powered solutions if it's not too deep.it is noticeably indented, but not that much, i guess? i don't really know what would be considered too deep or not.
So tough to judge by pics. Honestly, I'd take a mouse sander to it as I've done it before. Angle grinder is a bit overboard tho lol.yeah i have some kind of electric sander i could use. i think if i'm careful and quick with it it shouldn't get too out of hand or anything.
If youre not familiar with power sanders dont use one.i'm somewhat familiar with them in the context of woodworking. never used one on a car though.
keep doing it by hand.
1. If you leave any rust, your work will be all for nothing.the primer i have says it is 2-1 filler and sander. will that be enough for filler, or am i gonna need to use some putty too? it's a pretty small dimple where the rust is. i think i have some regular painter's putty. will that work?
B. Add in bondo filler where you feel its
low, otherwise your finished product will be wavy and look like shit
iii. Sand your whole area with 600 grit sandpaper before spraying, and wet sand between paint coats, but try not to let the paint cure otherwise itll have better chances of chipping/flaking
p.s. make sure you blend your paint on the full panel and/or to adjacent panels, either with color or clear coat so your new paint isnt obvious.
damn.... sanding by hand is tough work. especially with the finer grits. been at it all afternoon today and i'm pooped. i'm on the last piece of 400 and i still have like half of the hood left to go, and then a bunch of little spots on the doors, either on the crevices near the runner thingies or the frames. i'm gonna have to get another pack, which i really didn't want to do. trying to spend as little money as possible on this.My grandpa had a body shop for 50 something years, just retired a few years ago. It was just him doing everything. He's hands were a giant black callous. It's weird to see him without them now.
the primer i have says it is 2-1 filler and sander. will that be enough for filler, or am i gonna need to use some putty too? it's a pretty small dimple where the rust is. i think i have some regular painter's putty. will that work?Feel where the dimple is, you want that smooth, i wouldnt recommend throwing a bunch of paint in there, rather sand down to bare metal, add filler, sand that until its flush, then paint.
i don't understand what you mean by "wet sand between paint coats".wet sand between paint coats, what's not to get? this will keep bubbles and imperfections like that out of the final product.
i was planning on painting over just the spots themselves and around their immediate area and seeing if it looked fine, and if not, then going ahead and spraying the entire panels where they are. i don't really want to have to buy another can of spray paint. i am trying to keep to a budget here.With White, you might be able to get away with that as its the most forgiving color to imperfections, but with the fact that your car is old enough to have rust, i probably wouldnt care that much if it's not a full match, but its up to you. like, i probably wouldn't give as much time and attention to an older taurus or camry compared to my near-mint focus st
Feel where the dimple is, you want that smooth, i wouldnt recommend throwing a bunch of paint in there, rather sand down to bare metal, add filler, sand that until its flush, then paint.i tried a powered sander, and it didn't do much better, and so i ended up taking the point of a knife to it and scraping it out, which took care of it, and then sanding it down more after that. i think it will be fine when i put on the 2-1 primer/filler and smooth that out and then paint it.
wet sand between paint coats, what's not to get? this will keep bubbles and imperfections like that out of the final product.oh i haven't been wetting anything while i'm sanding. am i supposed to be doing that? wetting what, the sandpaper, or the car? how does that make any difference?
With White, you might be able to get away with that as its the most forgiving color to imperfections, but with the fact that your car is old enough to have rust, i probably wouldnt care that much if it's not a full match, but its up to you. like, i probably wouldn't give as much time and attention to an older taurus or camry compared to my near-mint focus stit's a 99 Mercury Sable. i don't think that's that old. it's just been sitting unused for awhile.